Hafikimwe cya kabiri cyimyenda yisi ikozwe muri polyester kandi Greenpeace iteganya ko aya mafaranga azikuba hafi kabiri muri 2030. Kubera iki? Inzira ya athleisure niba imwe mumpamvu nyamukuru zibyihishe inyuma: umubare munini wabaguzi bareba imyenda irambuye, irwanya cyane. Ikibazo nuko, polyester ntabwo ihitamo imyenda irambye, kuko ikozwe muri polyethylene terephthalate (PET), ubwoko bwa plastike bukunze kugaragara kwisi. Muri make, imyenda yacu myinshi ituruka kuri peteroli, mugihe akanama gashinzwe guverinoma ihuriweho n’imihindagurikire y’ibihe (IPCC) karahamagarira ingamba zikomeye kugira ngo ubushyuhe bw’isi bugere kuri 1.5 ° C hejuru y’urwego rw’inganda.

Imyaka itatu irashize, umuryango udaharanira inyungu Textile Exchange wamaganye amasosiyete arenga 50 yimyenda, imyenda n’ubucuruzi (harimo ibihangange nka Adidas, H&M, Gap na Ikea) kugirango yongere imikoreshereze ya polyester ikoreshwa neza mu mwaka wa 2020. Yakoze: ukwezi gushize. , uyu muryango wasohoye itangazo wishimira ko abashyizeho umukono batujuje intego gusa imyaka ibiri mbere y’itariki ntarengwa, mu byukuri barayirengeje mu kuzamura ikoreshwa rya polyester ikoreshwa neza ku gipimo cya 36%. Byongeye kandi, andi masosiyete cumi n'abiri yiyemeje kuzitabira iki kibazo muri uyu mwaka. Uyu muryango uteganya ko 20 ku ijana bya polyester zose zizongera gukoreshwa mu 2030.

Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa, izwi kandi nka rPET, iboneka mugushonga plastiki ihari hanyuma ukongera kuyizunguruka muri fibre nshya ya polyester. Mugihe hibandwa cyane kuri rPET ikozwe mumacupa ya pulasitike hamwe n’ibikoresho byajugunywe n’abaguzi, mubyukuri polyethylene terephthalate irashobora gutunganywa hifashishijwe ibikoresho byinjira nyuma yinganda na nyuma yabaguzi. Ariko, gusa kugirango utange urugero, amacupa atanu ya soda atanga fibre ihagije kuri T-shirt imwe nini.

Nubwogutunganya plastikibyumvikana nkigitekerezo cyiza kidashidikanywaho, ibirori bya rPET ntabwo biri kure yumuryango umwe mumyambarire irambye. FashionUnited yakusanyije ingingo nkuru zimpande zombi.

Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa: ibyiza

1. Kurinda plastiki kujya mu myanda ninyanja-Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa itanga ubuzima bwa kabiri kubintu bitabora kandi ubundi byarangirira mumyanda cyangwa inyanja. Nk’uko umuryango utegamiye kuri Leta witwa Ocean Conservancy ubitangaza, toni miliyoni 8 za metero za plastiki zinjira mu nyanja buri mwaka, hejuru ya toni zigera kuri miliyoni 150 za metero zikwirakwizwa muri iki gihe. Nidukomeza uyu muvuduko, muri 2050 hazaba plastike nyinshi mu nyanja kuruta amafi. Plastike yabonetse muri 60 ku ijana by'inyoni zose zo mu nyanja na 100 ku ijana by'ibinyabuzima byose byo mu nyanja, kubera ko bibeshya plastiki ku biryo.

Ku bijyanye n’imyanda, Ikigo cy’Amerika gishinzwe kurengera ibidukikije cyatangaje ko imyanda y’iki gihugu yakiriye toni miliyoni 26 za plastiki mu 2015 gusa. Umuryango w'ubumwe bw’ibihugu by’Uburayi uragereranya amafaranga angana buri mwaka n’abanyamuryango bayo. Nta gushidikanya ko imyenda ari igice kinini cy’ikibazo: mu Bwongereza, raporo yakozwe na Porogaramu ishinzwe imyanda n’umutungo (WRAP) yagereranije ko miliyoni 140 zama pound y’imyenda irangirira mu myanda buri mwaka. Muri email ye, Karla Magruder, umwe mu bagize inama y'ubutegetsi yo guhana imyenda, yandikiye FashionUnited ati: "Gufata imyanda ya pulasitike no kuyihindura ibikoresho by'ingirakamaro ni ingenzi cyane ku bantu no ku bidukikije."

2. RPET ninziza nka polyester yisugi, ariko ifata amikoro make yo gukora - Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa irasa na polyester yisugi mubijyanye nubwiza, ariko umusaruro wayo urasaba ingufu nke 59% ugereranije na polyester yisugi, nkuko ubushakashatsi bwakozwe muri 2017 n'ibiro bikuru by'Ubusuwisi bishinzwe ibidukikije. WRAP ivuga ko umusaruro wa rPET ugabanya imyuka ya CO2 ku kigero cya 32% ugereranije na polyester isanzwe. Magruder yongeyeho ati: "Iyo urebye ibipimo by'ubuzima, amanota ya rPET aruta cyane PET isugi."

Byongeye kandi, polyester yongeye gukoreshwa irashobora kugira uruhare mukugabanya gukuramo peteroli na gaze gasanzwe kwisi kugirango ikore plastike nyinshi. Urubuga rw’imurikagurisha ryo hanze Patagonia, ruzwi cyane mu gukora ubwoya buva mu macupa ya soda, imyanda idakoreshwa idakoreshwa ndetse n'imyenda ishaje. Yakomeje agira ati: “Irwanya imyanda, bityo ikongerera ubuzima imyanda kandi ikagabanya imyuka ihumanya ituruka ku gutwika. Ifasha kandi guteza imbere imigezi mishya itunganyirizwa imyenda ya polyester itagikoreshwa. "

Ikirango cy'imyenda y'Abanyamerika kigira kiti: "Kubera ko polyester igera kuri 60 ku ijana by'umusaruro wa PET ku isi - hafi inshuro ebyiri zikoreshwa mu macupa ya pulasitike - guteza imbere urwego rutanga amasoko ya fibre polyester rufite ubushobozi bwo kugira ingaruka zikomeye ku mbaraga z'umutungo n'ibikenewe ku isi". Nau, uzwi kandi gushyira imbere amahitamo arambye.

Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa: ibibi

1. Gusubiramo bifite aho bigarukira -Imyenda myinshi ntabwo ikozwe muri polyester yonyine, ahubwo ikozwe mubuvange bwa polyester nibindi bikoresho. Muri icyo gihe, biragoye cyane, niba bidashoboka, kubisubiramo. “Rimwe na rimwe, birashoboka mu buryo bwa tekiniki, urugero nko kuvanga polyester na pamba. Ariko biracyari kurwego rwicyitegererezo. Ikibazo ni ugushaka inzira zishobora kwagurwa neza kandi ntiturahari. ”Magruder yatangarije ikinyamakuru Suston mu 2017. Amatara amwe n'amwe arangiza akoreshwa ku bitambaro nabyo bishobora gutuma bidashoboka.

Ndetse imyenda igizwe na polyester 100 ku ijana ntishobora gusubirwamo ubuziraherezo. Hariho uburyo bubiri bwo gutunganya PET: muburyo bwa chimique. “Gutunganya imashini ni gufata icupa rya pulasitike, ukakaraba, ukayitemagura hanyuma ukayihindura chip ya polyester, hanyuma ikanyura mu nzira gakondo yo gukora fibre. Gutunganya imiti ikoreshwa ni gufata imyanda ya pulasitike ikayisubiza muri monomers yambere, idashobora gutandukana na polyester yisugi. Ibyo birashobora noneho gusubira muri sisitemu isanzwe ikora polyester, "ibi bikaba byasobanuwe na Magruder kuri FashionUnited. RPET nyinshi iboneka hifashishijwe imashini ikoreshwa neza, kuko niyo ihendutse mubikorwa byombi kandi ntisaba indi miti usibye ibikoresho byogejwe kugirango bisukure ibikoresho byinjira. Ibiro bikuru by’Ubusuwisi bishinzwe ibidukikije bivuga ko, “binyuze muri ubu buryo, fibre ishobora gutakaza imbaraga bityo ikaba igomba kuvangwa na fibre yisugi.”

Patty Grossman, umwe mu bashinze umushinga wa Patty Grossman yagize ati: "Abantu benshi bizera ko plastiki zishobora gukoreshwa mu buryo butagira akagero, ariko igihe cyose ubushyuhe bwa pulasitike bumaze gushyuha bugenda bwangirika, bityo itera rya nyuma rya polymer rikaba ryangiritse kandi plastike igomba gukoreshwa mu gukora ibicuruzwa byujuje ubuziranenge". Bashiki bacu Babiri Ecotextiles, muri imeri kuri FashionUnited. Ishyirahamwe ry’imyenda ariko, rivuga ku rubuga rwa interineti ko rPET ishobora gutunganywa mu myaka myinshi: “imyenda iva muri polyester itunganijwe igamije guhora itunganywa nta kwangiza ubuziranenge”, uyu muryango wanditse, wongeyeho ko uruziga rw’imyenda ya polyester rufite ubushobozi bwo kuba “ sisitemu ifunze sisitemu "umunsi umwe.

Abakurikiza ibitekerezo bya Grossman bavuga ko isi igomba kubyara no gukoresha plastike nke muri rusange. Niba abaturage bizera ko ibyo bajugunye byose bishobora kubyazwa umusaruro, birashoboka ko nta kibazo bazabona mugukomeza kurya ibicuruzwa bya pulasitiki bikoreshwa. Kubwamahirwe make, agace gato gusa ka plastike dukoresha karongera gukoreshwa. Ikigo cyo muri Amerika gishinzwe kurengera ibidukikije cyatangaje ko muri Amerika, 9 ku ijana gusa bya plastiki zose zongeye gukoreshwa mu 2015.

Abahamagarira kutishimira ibirori bya rPET barengera ko imideli y'abaguzi n'abaguzi bagomba gushishikarizwa gutonesha fibre naturel bishoboka. N'ubundi kandi, nubwo rPET ifata ingufu nkeya 59 ku ijana kugira ngo itange umusaruro kurusha polyester isugi, iracyasaba ingufu nyinshi kuruta ikivuguto, ubwoya ndetse n'ipamba kama ndetse n'ipamba isanzwe, nk'uko raporo ya 2010 yo mu kigo cy’ibidukikije cya Stockholm ibigaragaza.